Hack, did you say Hack? Axelle from @creaxou.s takes the center stage on our blog dedicated to the Hacks of the leaders from our Collection. LA Combinaison sewing pattern is getting shorter with a 70s style silhouette. Goodbye elastic waistband, hello nicely shaped calves! Axelle brings a breath of fresh air to this playsuit to enjoy without moderation.

GUEST OF THE MONTH

In 2020, Axelle fell in love with sewing in. They have been inseparable ever since! Their journey together led to a CAP in sewing and a passion, like two soulmates destined to share this project with you.
Here is what Axelle has created especially for you. How to Hack La Combinaison into a Short Romper.

THE HACK TO SEW ALL YEAR ROUND

Our accomplice

Hello, everyone! I'm Axelle from the account @Creaxou.s
I've been invited to this blog by Atelier Brunette to hack one of their sewing patterns.

A little about me: I've been addicted to sewing for 4 years now!

I love colors, fabrics and sharing my sewing adventures with you on Instagram.

WHAT ARE THE CHARMS OF LA COMBINAISON?

Sizes 34 to 48

The piece that is worn for both its comfort and its timeless style.
A jumpsuit with feminine accents to reinvent each season.

A large integrated button placket on the front.
A round neckline that highlights the collar bones.
Two large patch pockets on the sides.

THE COMPONENTS

Axelle's style tips

Axelle sewed this hack in size 38, cinching it to a 36 at the waist, using our GINGHAM Matcha Leaf fabric. For this project, Axelle invites the sun to shine, creating a summer piece to wear every day.

To help you choose your size, here are her measurements:
- Bust: 89 cm
- Waist: 65 cm
- Hips: 101 cm

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WHAT YOU WILL NEED

- 2.5 m of fabric (width 140 cm)
- 0.70 m of interfacing
- 0.40 m of interfacing
- 0.60 m of bias tape
- 6 buttons (20 mm diameter)
- Matching thread

FABRIC TIPS

Materials with light structure (but not too much), like our linens, linen blends, and double cotton gauze fabrics. We also envision it in terry cloth, reminiscent of children's or young teenagers' outfits from the past.

HER FAVORITE FABRIC

I chose to sew with Atelier Brunette’s GINGHAM Matcha Leaf fabric.

I made this choice for two reasons: first, because I wanted a light and breathable romper, and also because I love being able to play with the two sizes of gingham checks.

STEP-BY-STEP

Difficulty level: Beginner
For this hack, you don’t need to be an expert. There are only two pieces and two steps to modify.

The shorts are intentionally quite short because that’s what I wanted, but if you’re not comfortable with this length, you can draw a parallel line and add 2 cm (the value of your hem) once the pieces are modified.
Before modifying the pieces, I recommend highlighting the size you have chosen (this will help better identify the size you are interested in).

Let’s go! I'm taking you with me to hack the La Combinaison sewing pattern.

MODIFY

The pattern pieces: Front (piece n°1) and Back leg (piece n°3).

/ 1 /

THE FRONT

Start by locating the notch on the inside of the leg that corresponds with your selected size.

At this notch, draw a line parallel to the "joining line between the lower and upper parts."

Draw this line so that it extends about 4-5 cm beyond the lines of your size.

We will call this line: "the shorts hemline."

/ 1.2 /

THE LEG SIDE SEAM

Identify your size and where it meets the previously drawn line.

From this point, mark a point on the shorts hemline 2.5 cm towards the outside of the leg.

You now have a new point.

Draw a perpendicular line upwards from this new point, creating a right angle.

Make a mark at 2 cm.

Connect the previously drawn mark with the junction point between the top of the pocket and the side seam.

/ 1.3 /

THE INSEAM

Now we are going to draw the inside of the front leg.
On the bottom line of the shorts, make a mark 1 cm towards the outside of the leg.

Then, connect this mark with the notch below the tip of the bottom of the crotch (please refer to the photo for help).

Once this line is drawn, you will have the front piece.
I’ve traced my modifications in orange to make it easier to see.

/ 2 /

THE BACK

By using the same principle for the front leg, it's going to be a piece of cake!
Start by marking the assembly notch on the inside of the leg (use the one for your size).

At the notch, draw a line perpendicular to the grainline.
Draw this line so that it extends 4-5 cm beyond the lines of your selected size.
We will call this line "the bottom line of the shorts".

/ 2.1 /

THE SIDE LEG SEAM

Locate your size and where it meets the bottom line of the shorts.

From this point, mark a point on the bottom line of the shorts, 1.5 cm towards the outside of the leg.

Once this mark is made, draw a perpendicular line upwards from the point marked on the bottom line of the shorts.

It will create a right angle.

Make a mark at 2 cm.

Connect the point previously marked with the junction point between the top of the pocket and the side seam.

/ 2.2 /

THE INSEAM

Trace the inside of the back leg.

On the bottom line of the shorts, mark a point 1 cm towards the outside of the leg.

Next, connect this point with the notch below the tip of the crotch seam (if it's not clear, refer to the photo for help).

Once this line is drawn, you will have the back piece.

SEWING

Sew the pieces exactly as if assembling the LA Combinaison, modifying assembly steps /4/ and /9/.

/ 4 /

THE POCKETS

Position the pocket using only marks A, B and C because mark D might be slightly offset (don't worry, it won't change the look of the pocket). Continue sewing, following the instructions until step 9.

/ 9 /

FINITION

Here, the hem at the bottom isn't different in terms of technique, but the measurements are different.

First, fold 1 cm, then fold it back on itself.

And now, I can only congratulate you because you've finished!
I hope the explanations were easy to understand and that you enjoyed this hack!
I wish you lots of enjoyment with your new jumpsuit, and I'll see you soon on my account @Creaxou.s and also on @atelierbrunette's account!

Advice from the Les Brunettes' office: Trust yourself, and if in doubt, we're here to support you - send us a DM on Instagram @atelierbrunette