Adjusting the ease: Adjusting the ease refers to distributing a slight excess of fabric from one pattern piece when joining it to another. This fullness is evenly distributed along the seam to shape the garment, for example, at the sleeve cap. Without this ease, the fabric can become distorted due to the pressure exerted by the arms on the armhole.
Angled-seam technique: A construction technique consisting of inserting one piece of fabric into another, often by joining a concave corner to a convex corner.
Bias tape / Finishing tape: Straight strip of fabric cut on the bias (45° angle from the grainline). It is generally used for edges such as armholes and necklines.
Decating: Removing the finish from a fabric by ironing at full steam. This technique avoids the possibility of fabric shrinkage or distortion. For fabrics that cannot withstand ironing, it is preferable to pre-wash instead.
Edgestitch: A very fine, visible line of stitching sewn directly along the edge of a fold or another seam, approximately 1–2 mm away on the right side of the fabric, and directly into the seam groove on the wrong side.
French seam: A seam done first with wrong sides together using a straight stitch. The fabric is then turned inside out, the seam allowance is trimmed, and a second seam is stitched with right sides together to enclose the raw edges.
Grainline / Straight grain: Fabric cutting direction parallel to the selvage (length of the fabric), indicated by an arrow on the pattern.
Notch / Marking: A small marker on the sewing pattern used to correctly line up pattern pieces when sewing them together.
Overcast stitch / Overlock: Zigzag stitch on the sewing machine, or overcast with a serger on the edges of the fabric. This reinforces the fabric and prevents fraying.
Raglan: A type of sleeve that extends in one piece at an angle to the collar.
Rib knit / Ribbing: Stretch knit fabric with alternating raised and lowered ridges, used on the opening edges of clothing (necklines, cuffs, hems).
Single fold hem: Folding the fabric back on itself and stitching it in place as a finish.
Stitch in the ditch: Stitching directly on top of an existing seam line, from the right side of the garment.
Topstitch: Topstitching sewn on the right side of a garment, making it visible and decorative. It can be used to flatten and secure layers of fabric, reinforce an existing seam, and/or add a decorative detail.
Trimming / Grading: Reducing the width of the seam allowance by cutting the surplus.
Understitch: To discreetly stitch or sew several layers of fabric together within the seam allowance. This keeps the layers securely in place, prevents them from shifting, and ensures neat finishes without visible topstitching on the right side.
