SEWING STRIPES | ATELIER BRUNETTE

SEWING STRIPED FABRICS

They are much easier to tame than they seem.

They are much easier to tame than they appear.

In sewing, as we all know, there are no strict rules, just tips to share among sewers, techniques tested for hours to master them. Finding YOUR method remains the priority.

Who hasn't been frustrated by sewing a striped fabric?

These stripes often intimidate, but the creativity they stimulate encourages us to take the plunge.

Because in reality, with a few simple guidelines, they become a real playground and fear gives way to the pride of an (almost) perfect match.

A stripe misalignment is very quickly noticeable when worn and can mar the (certain) time spent sewing, and that's out of the question!

Sewing patterns with darts or yokes will be more difficult, if not impossible, to match.

Sometimes, choosing not to match these lines becomes a deliberate decision to embrace.

UNDERSTANDING THE PRINCIPLE OF THE CONNECTION

Matching involves making the stripes on one piece coincide with those on another to create visual continuity.

Stripes are a false pattern, as we like to say in the workshop corridors.

They can be with or against the grainline. Their lines are therefore parallel to the selvedge (grainline) = vertical or perpendicular to the grainline, hence horizontal.

Certain areas are more important than others: side seams, center front or back, armholes, patch pockets, welt pockets, and other types of visible pockets.

MOST COMMON MISTAKES

Cut all pieces at once

Follow the cutting plan without adapting it

Forget to anticipate the required yardage

Want to match patterns everywhere

BEST PRACTICES

Pay particular attention to three steps:

1. CUT THE FABRIC

Sometimes it will be necessary to discard the suggested cutting plan and adapt it to striped fabric if the cutting plan was not designed for stripes.

Two methods inspire us:

OUR PREFERRED OPTION,

longer but potentially more precise.

Opt for a flat cut without folding your fabric in half (keeping its full width unfolded).

Cut each piece individually when it is indicated to cut it at least twice.

Adjust the placement for each new piece by choosing a reference line (marker).

Adjust until you achieve consistent alignment.

A specific detail for pattern pieces to be cut on the fold:

Draw the vertical center line of the pattern piece to be cut on the fold onto your fabric.

Draw one side up to the previously drawn center guideline, then flip the pattern piece over to symmetrically draw the other side.

THE OTHER TECHNIQUE

Draw the stripes on your pattern pieces by transferring their spacing (e.g., a stripe every 3 cm, the spacing of our Stripes Vanilla Ice and Jelly Purple)

All you have to do is visualize the areas to be matched by aligning the stripes of the pattern with the stripes of your fabric.

2 AND 3. PIN AND SEW

Just like ironing, pinning is a crucial step.

Having the best needles is essential.

Before sewing, take the time to pin your pieces, making sure the stripes match up. Opt for fine pins for delicate fabrics, and slightly thicker ones for heavy fabrics.

It is said (we haven't tested it yet) that fork pins, used in upholstery, are unparalleled allies in preventing the seam from slipping when the fabric passes under the presser foot.

When assembling your pieces, sew at a moderate speed and guide the fabric without pulling, checking the seam regularly.

If necessary, don't hesitate to baste (by hand) before sewing.

TEAM TIPS

Play with the direction of your stripes (pockets, details, yokes)

Embrace slight irregularities: they are part of the charm

ANAÏS SPEAKS

Anaïs from the account @dntanais, queen of perfect stripe matching, shares her ultimate secret to reassure you.

In every season, striped garments have a special place in my handmade wardrobe. I love working with this faux solid, which adds character to the simplest pieces and allows for numerous outfits in monochrome or tone-on-tone looks.

It's a pattern that, depending on its color and width, can be very classic or very fancy, discreet or extravagant.

To sew stripes, I first pay attention to the quality of the fabric: a very regular stripe that is scrupulously perpendicular or parallel to the selvedge. So I avoid low-end fabrics and choose a quality fabric with a tight weave and a regular pattern. This will save time when cutting out the pieces and ensure that the garment will not distort during sewing and wearing!

The choice of pattern is also important. Some cuts with curved yokes (princess seams, batwing sleeves) or bias cuts are not really suitable for stripes, while others, on the contrary, are enhanced by a striped pattern: shirts and all their variations, summer shirts or shirt dresses, trousers, raglan sleeves...

Once the pattern is chosen, I analyze its technical details and decide what I want to highlight using the direction of the pattern: a chest pocket that stands out with an inversion of the stripe direction or, on the contrary, that is camouflaged with perfect pattern matching.

If I want to challenge myself a bit, I can also try cutting at 45° to get stripes that meet at a point. In this case, be careful to use a straight grain to avoid fabric distortion.

For cutting, I apply most of the advice given in the article: I put my laziness aside and cut the fabric in a single layer. The time lost here will be largely gained during assembly when everything fits perfectly! I carefully mark the assembly points on the pieces and align the pattern by relying on these marks.

If I want to handle precise matching, I draw the stripe marks with a pencil on the pattern pieces and I make sure to fold back the seam allowance to avoid making mistakes!

Sometimes I make minor adaptations to the pattern to accommodate the design, for example, slightly lengthening or shortening a cuff strap to ensure only full stripes are present in the final product.

For sewing, I often baste because it guarantees a perfect result on the first try. I prefer to spend time with a needle and basting thread rather than with a seam ripper!

Finally, when my piece is finished and I'm thinking about which outfits to create, I prioritize pairing it with more structured pieces and fabrics: denim, leather, gabardine. They will complement my striped look without making me feel like I'm wearing pajamas. A beautiful tote bag, my favorite sunglasses, and I'm ready to make all the beach loungers jealous: the best stripes are mine!

OUR STRIPED FABRICS