THE SEWING PATTERNS JOURNAL

JACKETS AND COATS: WHICH SEWING PATTERN TO CHOOSE?

Eight patterns, eight personalities.

At Atelier Brunette, the Jackets / Coats collection brings together essential sewing patterns, blending workwear allure with a free spirit, iconic pieces to wear with a touch of elegance and modernity. Mandarin collar, notched lapel, or shirt collar, short cut or long to the calves, there is definitely a jacket made for you. This guide takes you pattern by pattern, from the most accessible to the most technical.

WHAT IS THE DIFFERENCE BETWEEN JACKETS AND COATS?

A jacket is generally worn at the waist or on the hips, to structure a silhouette for everyday wear.

 

A longer coat protects against the cold and is considered a full-fledged winter item, often lined.

Entre les deux, Atelier Brunette propose aussi des hybrides forts en caractère : LA Barn Jacket, veste doublée à l'esprit workwear anglais, et LE Trench, imperméable long à ceinture, indémodable.

THE QUICK GUIDE TO CHOOSING YOUR SEWING PATTERN

DETAILS OF EACH ATELIER BRUNETTE PATTERN

Patterns available in print or PDF format

LA PETITE VESTE

Beginner-friendly sewing level

Its specific features?

A loose fit with charming angles, an ideal length above the hips, a V-cut in the back (to sew fringes if you feel like it), wide sleeveless armholes, patch pockets and topstitching like freckles. A truly asserted 70's character.

Recommended fabrics for sewing?

A light gabardine, or any light

to medium weight fabric that holds its shape.

LA VESTE

Intermediate sewing level

What are its specific features?

Two versions available: version A emphasizes the hips for a casual 90s look to wear with sneakers; version B highlights the waist for a retro seventies style, with high-waisted jeans. Seven centimeters separate the two lengths.

Recommended fabrics for sewing it?

Denim is its preferred material, plain or striped.

LE BLAZER

Intermediate sewing level

Its specific features?

A length that gives it a contemporary look, a reinterpreted tailored collar with an inner facing, a closure with a pretty button that emphasizes the rounded bottom of the jacket, and two large patch pockets on the front. Want a sleeveless hack? It's possible with the step-by-step tutorial available.

What fabrics are recommended for sewing it?

A Gabardine for a neat and structured look.

LE MANTEAU

Intermediate sewing level

Its specific features?

A loose and comfortable cut, a turn-down collar for a subtle touch of femininity, a three-quarter button placket, slightly dropped armholes for layering a sweater underneath, adjustable martingale cuffs, two large patch pockets, a structured lining.

Recommended fabrics for sewing?

A wool fabric for the main fabric,

a lining in viscose or modal.

LA VESTE TROUBLANTE

Intermediate sewing level

Its specific features?

A straight and ample cut suitable for all body types, an asymmetrical closure with three buttons on a crossed tab (the model's true signature), carefully designed armhole lines, a mandarin collar, two large functional patch pockets.

Recommended fabrics for sewing?

Cotton, Linen or medium-weight blends for an airy drape, Light Gabardine or Water-Repellent Cotton for more structure.

LA VESTE SPENCER

Intermediate sewing level

What makes it special?

A slightly flared cut, fully lined, with cap sleeves for well-defined shoulders without being excessive, a length above the hips for a slender effect, a sharp tailored collar, a two-button double-breasted closure, two piped pockets, a V-cut at the back. It's one of Atelier Brunette's signature pieces.

Recommended fabrics?

A structured yet fluid material, Gabardine, Linen, or a lightweight wool.

LE TRENCH

Advanced sewing level

Its specific features?

An oversized cut for absolute style and comfort, a length that tickles the bottom of the calves, designed cut-outs at the front and back, a shirt collar with its stand, a hidden button placket opening, raglan sleeves, piped chest and side pockets, a drawstring waist with an openwork back.

What fabrics are recommended for sewing it?

A Water-Repellent Cotton for waterproofing.

LA BARN JACKET

Advanced sewing level

What are its specific features?

A loose, straight cut faithful to its traditional signature, raglan sleeves with wide cuffs, a collar that sets the tone from the first button, a zip fastening under a buttoned placket, two large patch pockets with buttoned flaps, and a lining with an inside pocket.

What fabrics are recommended for sewing it?

Use Canvas or Gabardine, thick or lighter depending on the season; create contrast by sewing the collar and cuffs in Velvet.

YOUR QUESTIONS ABOUT JACKETS AND COATS

Which pattern should you choose for sewing a first jacket?

LA Petite Veste is the most accessible item in the wardrobe, rated "beginner," sleeveless and not very fabric-intensive, making it ideal for getting started.

What is the difference between LA Barn Jacket and LE Trench?

LA Barn Jacket is a short, lined jacket, with an English countryside workwear spirit, to sew in Canvas or Gabardine. LE Trench is longer, belted (or not), with a shirt collar and raglan sleeves, a more technical piece, rated for advanced sewers.

What fabric should I choose to sew a warm coat?

Wool fabric is recommended for LE Manteau, with a Viscose or Modal lining for a structured and comfortable drape.

HOW TO STYLE YOUR JACKETS AND COATS?

3 outfit ideas featuring the Jackets / Coats collection from Atelier Brunette

THE ATELIER BRUNETTE PATTERN COLLECTION IN A WORD

Jacket and coat patterns accessible to every sewing level, for all styles and all inspirations.

I SEW THEM

The Atelier Brunette team

 

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